Douar taverna is located at Steni, the largest village in the hinterland of Tinos, at the foot of Mt. Tsiknia. At the end of a long narrow pedestrian street running through the village, three streets converge to form a little square. There under an enormous plane tree (platanos) sits a taverna bearing the same name, owned by Edouardo Delatolas, but the locals all know it as Douar’s.
Douar is one of those classic family tavernas that specializes in meat, but in this case all the meats, cheeses, charcuterie and vegetables come from the island of Tinos. While enjoying a juicy, perfectly cooked beef steak, having already polished off a salad with the first tasty tomatoes of the year (spring 2018), and sipping Douar ’s barrel wine, we got into a conversation with the owner, who though approaching eighty is still going strong.
“When I was young, Steni had a thriving shoe factory. And so like so many others here I started out as a shoemaker, but I was restless, always searching for something, In 1967 under the plane tree opposite a kafeneio opened up, which served coffee, orange juice and a few simple meze. One Friday I killed a sheep, but it disappeared over the weekend. That’s how the story began. I asked my father to let me have the basement of our house, here where we’re sitting now and in 1971, I opened the taverna.
In the winter we’re open only on the weekend, more for the company than the business, and in any case my wife and I live upstairs. In summer it’s a madhouse, we have tables spread out everywhere under the plane tree. The whole family helps, my son Markos, my grandkids, it’s a family affair. But to find a table, you have to have made a reservation”.
For starters, we tried the salads, his cheeses and his louzes (cured pork), among the best on the island. As for the meat, we had a hard time choosing. Douar is famous for his veal liver, his lamb chops, beef fillet and steaks, pork chops and pork fillet, his own sausages and, naturally, his kokoretsi and kontosouvli on the spit.