Drosia Tavern at Ktikados

Let's not beat around the bush. Drosia is one of the best taverns in the Aegean, never mind Tinos.

And here's why:

- To start with, Ktikados is a small, traditional and particularly attractive little village near Hora (the main town), high up above Kionia on the coast. The road past the traditional houses with their decorative doorways, the chapels, the narrow flagstone alleys, the archways, the fountains and the old washhouses puts you in the right mood.

- The excellent taste of the place, which is genuinely folkloric. Aegean colors, lovely ceilings, slate floors outlined in white, fresh flowers on charming tablecloths. Nothing jarring, pretentious or phony. And from there you go into the courtyard and you see a spacious terrace, in an oasis of greenery, that looks out over the Aegean, with Syros on the horizon.

- The food cooked by smiling Kyra Irini and her husband Kyr Vasilis. The generous portions of dishes based on local products and island recipes.

- Mouth-watering food, like artichokes pickled or in pies, stewed or in omelettes? Tinos kid, squab, and an extraordinary salt cod with garlic sauce? keftedes (meatballs) redolent of mint; salads with sweet local baby tomatoes and capers.

- Great cooking and a winning way with the frying pan.

- Home-style delicacies served by family members, all of them gracious and friendly. Children and grandchildren.

We got talking with the taverna owners, Kyrios Vasilis Krontiras and his grandchildren.

“Before the war, this place was just a small grocery store and it served snacks like dried chickpeas, olives, perhaps a bit of herring. In the 1950s my father put in a little stove and on Sundays, I remember, we had music. In 1970 I took over and expanded it until it's what you see today ”.

"We get lots of groups coming over from Mykonos, people who come to this island to find home cooking", he said Haris, the oldest grandson, and then they jumped up to help serve.