The only solution to feel old-fashioned in the Cyclades, ie holidays without cars, pressure, demanding consumers and to move to human rhythms, sluggish and lazy, has only to head to Small Cyclades.
Redemptive walks on old paths, purifying hikes to reach idyllic sandy beaches, or short boat trips to swim in emerald waters. Human relationships, moments of relaxation, where the nothing becomes important and nothing important.
The six islands that belong to the complex of small Cyclades are the I was shaking (14 sq.km. and 130 inhabitants), the Pano Koufonisi (6 sq.km. and 370 inhabitants), K.ato Koufonis(4 sq. km. uninhabited, but accessible by alternatives who often set up tents on the shores), the I was rope (9 sq.km. and 250 inhabitants), h Heraklion (18 sq.km. and 150 inhabitants) and the Candle (15 sq. Km. Uninhabited as an archeological site).
The main feature of all 6 islands together with their islets is that they belonged to a period of the 19th century in its ownership. Hozoviotissa Monastery of Amorgos and the inhabitants were landless farmers and stockbreeders and when the estates were expropriated the inhabitants acquired their own land.
Today the tourism of the Small Cyclades is gently developed in small hotels or in tasteful rooms and is the alternative holiday paradise.
The islands have many features in common - one of their most characteristic is the hospitality of the inhabitants and the friendly atmosphere to the visitors - but also some differences in the organization of the society and the local economy, such as large fishing fleet in Pano Koufonisi, its cultivation fava in Schinoussa or production of thyme honey in Heraklion.
Nine taverns in the Small Cyclades, divided into five small islands.
Two taverns in Heraklion, two hangouts in Schinoussa, one in Kato Koufonisi, two in Pano Koufonisi and two in Donoussa.
I was shaking
Kyma to Kyma in Donoussa
The "Kima" cafe of Nikitas Markoulis, dominates the small port of Donoussa. In Kyma one stands shortly as soon as you arrive by steamer because it is the first shop you will encounter. Here he will drink his first land coffee and from here he will get the necessary information. Kyma has been operating since 1948 and is the oldest and most popular shop on the island.
The main personality of the cafe, however, is Nikitas' wife, the Mrs. Vangelio with her expressive eyes and restless conversations, which is epic from dawn to prepare all her dishes for the evening. Pasticcio, those voluptuous portions of it that have no end, the meatballs, the potato goat and much more… Not that she will not miss her opportunities for social commentary!
The daughter of Michalis in Mersini of Donoussa
In the settlement Mersin (we are talking about ten houses) 10 minutes drive from the port of Donoussa, we meet a family tavern, the daughter of Michalis, in an environment of absolute tranquility. The view is amazing to the Aegean Sea, in all versions, calm or stormy. At the entrance of the tavern you will see "Searching the Aegean with a glass of wine, and a violin melody… Welcome to the daughter of Michalis"
Many vegetables come from neighboring orchards while we tasted the kavourma with the mashed potatoes and cherry tomatoes, the sponge with potatoes and zucchini, dresser (dresser) saganaki (spicy Naxian cheese) served with sweet fig sauce, the rakadiko (wild goat) slow cooked in raki with mashed potatoes in clay, roast pork with red sauce and thick spaghetti and many other playful toys.
Pano Koufonisi
Kalofeggo in Pori in Pano Koufonisi
I was lucky enough to meet Koufonisia in the 1970s. It had not arrived - it came to Pasok in the early 1980s - and the lighting was with acetylene lamps. On foot we took the beaches: Finikas, Italy and finally Pori. Paradise beaches, nudism, innocent times. Nowadays, the exotic Pori has changed, a lot of people, boats ook estin number, but finally the climate retains something from the past. The beach is disorganized, without a trace of sunbed, and all those who follow it philosophy of the lounger. People with their colorful sails spread out on the sand, beach games, happy people!
The Good moon is the most alternative of its two taverns Poriou. The atmosphere - all over the world - was reminiscent of the Mykonos Paraga in 1970. Extremely tasteful place, customers new happy guys, most foreigners (Italian-French-Spanish), in their swimsuits, a very relaxed atmosphere, and from on the other an excellent service, a sense of pastry everywhere, and a very good organization in the service with a wide range of teased Greek and Mediterranean flavors. For relaxed and not at all neurotic and perfectionist types.
Winery of Antonis Mavros - Melissa in Pano Koufonisi
Close to Saint George, the metropolis of the village, in 1970 was located the "Melissa" grocery store by Antonis Mavros. A shop where you could find everything: groceries, ice brought by Skopelitis from Naxos, but also bread since Mr. Antonis had the only bakery on the island. In times when there was no electricity, houses and shops were lit with acetylene lamps, music was played by violins and lutes and tourists were counted on their fingers. "Melissa" was, among other things, a kitchen. While waiting for the hotline to pick up the line, you drank some ouzo with meze, or in the evening enjoy the pies, spaghetti and fish of Mr. Antonis's wife. Especially her dancing with him, when the two of them were dancing a ball.
Some for the better, some for the worse. The Mavrou couple also left for the big trip, almost together a few years ago. Now the commands in the shop are made by Stamatis, their son, and the shop remains as before, a constant value in the changing environment, with the only change being a tasteful pergola useful for the summer shade. From food, Stamatis continues to make his mother's delicious pies (cheese pies, spinach pies, potato pies, pumpkin pies), braised goat, various cooked and of course fish.
Kato Koufonissi
The tavern of Venetsanos in Kato Koufonisi
Η Venetian tavern It is mainly a hangout of the summer residents of Kato Koufonisi, ie the community of alternatives who live in tents from a few days until the whole summer, and of the daily visitors, who after taking a bath want to meet their permanent friends or get a a taste of this life but also a taste of the tavern atmosphere.
The area of the tavern is the apotheosis of improvisation and self-construction. Old ruined houses, or courtyards covered with beams, vaults, awnings, reeds. Warm space, welcoming and in harmony with the natural landscape. The staff is friendly, polite. From food there is a showcase with delicious dishes starring the kid of Keros and a grill for grilling the fish that come every morning by boat. Music from groups creates take-off situations.
I was rope
The tavern of Mrs. Pothiti in Schinoussa
In the town of Schinoussa, is located the tavern Kyra Pothiti. The family of Mrs. Pothiti Kovaiou is one of the great ones of Schinoussos, after all, there are not many on the island (others known are Nomikoi, Scarlatoi, Economides, Klaoudatoi, Manides, etc.) and then Mrs. Pothiti, at the end of street, served for years (since 1990) with care and taste dishes with local products from their orchard, farm and boat.
Somewhere here the Triantaphyllia or Filitsa Karamanli, originally from Asia Minor, who arrived on the island in 2005 and fell in love with it and her eldest son Mrs. Pothitis, Antonis. Husky, smiling with beautiful eyes and a good hand in cooking, she was the one who turned the local flavors into the most creative and the result in both shops was explosive. For four years now, Filitsa - which took place on the island Kiss- cooks in the summer in Schinoussa, dishes that you do not easily find in the Cyclades - even in gourmet restaurants!
The cafe of Chara in Schinoussa
The cafe of Joy, an old place, an Aegean building, their layers of whitewash dozens, the indigo oil paint up to the middle of the height of the walls in embossed plasters. Beams snakes and indigo. Advertising sign of Tam-tam and others of the time, old fan on the ceiling and lamps for lighting. You remembered from the cafes of the small Cyclades before 1983, when during Gennimata in a solemn ceremony the islands were electrified.
The "coffee makers" are new kids, and the "world" of the cafe is what it should be. Hangout of youth, locals and vacationers, people who love the place. And endless stories, everyday conversations about things that happened to us and our neighbors. A sucker that escaped, the goat that gave birth, the vintage that is late, the fava that came out earlier this year. Experience stories and around a table with rakes and appetizers, local tomatoes, xinomyzithra, and the Lila Klaoudatou and Thodoris Nomikos they tell us their stories.
Heraklion
The tavern of Akathi in Heraklion
Η Akathi tavern is the old tavern Perigiali which was located just a few meters from the beach of the port of Heraklion and has now been moved fifty meters above. Here you will find, in addition to home-cooked (goat, pork locals) perhaps the only fresh fish and delicacies of the sea (hunger-oysters-bubbles), God and weather permitting.
The fish are secured by the boat of Akathi's man Panagiotis Roussou, of Mitzula (the nickname) that has the largest boat on the island, the Panagia Akathi a treadmill 15 meters! From snout to the boat, Akathi in 2001 decided to become a tavern owner using the fish of her husband and together with the only daughter of Agathi, Evangelia to build one of the most interesting taverns in the Cyclades.
Araklia, the tavern of Giannis Gavalas in Heraklion
The tribute to the taverns of the Small Cyclades was delayed, because we were waiting for how and how to open the Giannis Gavalas his tavern, in his paternal home, thus satisfying a dream of his time. Giannis, one of the chefs a jewel for Greek gastronomy, that is, with a strong view on the locality and the ethos of cooking, from 4-8-2019 is on its hill Heraklion, 150 meters from the port, with its delicacies, its local recipes, its cheeses from all over the Cyclades and with the ambition to leave its mark, now in the homeland.
The paternal house was restored, beautiful spaces were created inside and outside in corridors, me I singled out the balcony that controls the entrance of the port of Schinoussa. I admired the organization of the kitchen, the view from the verandas, and I shared the enthusiasm of the chef and his team, because finally, 2 years of work came to an end. John good trip the tavern, the Araklia, I am sure that you will offer many joys to your visitors on the island and of course to yourself and your company! The menu the day before it opened was hidden; I was just offered two mulberry appetizers and I believe that whatever is presented from Tuesday, will be just as high.
Epilogue - instructions for seafarers
The taverns are over, I wish you good snacks στε enjoy the relaxation of the Small Cyclades, and you have the senses on alert, Dont miss images like this, where fig decided to become the guardian of the abandoned house.
The house was deserted, part of the roof collapsed, the shutters and the door on the threshold fell to the ground.
"They took my houses.
It happened that the years were divided into wars, ruins, alienations εν
You know them houses stubbornly easily, like the naked."
George Seferis
The fig tree that ignited and covered the entrance of the house was somewhat stubborn, in order to save its price and to save its last memories.
Heraklion 3-8-2019, ending my article about the taverns of the Small Cyclades!
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